In this week’s Letter from the Editor, we are delighted to introduce to our gourmand readers the President of contemporary art galleries in New York and Dubai Leila Heller, who also happens to be the author of one of the most delectable cookbooks released this year, Persian Feasts.
Full of colourful, fragrant dishes highlighting the stunning breadth of Persian cuisine, Heller bridges the gap between food, art, culture and history in a way that is both inspiring and totally novel.
According to Heller, one of her most cherished memories is cooking alongside her mother when she was just five years old.
“I come from a family where culinary traditions are deeply revered. My mother and grandmother taught me the art of Azerbaijani cooking, a skill passed down through generations. My father’s three sisters introduced me to the rich flavours of Russian and Uzbek cuisines, including dishes like borscht, pirozhki and Salad Olivier. This diverse culinary heritage has profoundly shaped my approach to cooking,” says Heller.
For those who are keen but haven’t tried to cook Persian cuisine yet, Heller says that any skilled cook can master the cuisine of any culture. For beginners, Heller recommends Chelow kebab.
“This is a dish that, while seemingly simple, holds great depth and flavour. It is one of our most celebrated dishes; a combination of fragrant white rice with a crispy bottom, served alongside skewers of marinated beef and lamb, roasted tomatoes, peppers, egg yolk and a sprinkle of sumac. This dish is typically accompanied by doogh, a refreshing salty yogurt drink, as well as fresh herbs, feta cheese, walnuts, radishes and strained yogurt, plain or infused with garlic. This would be served with Taftoon, Sangak, or Barbari bread,” says Heller.
Another beloved and straightforward dish is abgosht, a hearty stew perfect for the colder months.
“Our cookbook features two variations of abgosht; one made with lamb and the other with chicken, each offering a comforting and satisfying meal,” says Heller.
So what are the hallmarks of Persian cuisine then?
“Persian cuisine is traditionally prepared in large quantities. When cooking for just two, we take great care to prepare a sumptuous meal, typically featuring a pot of rice with a golden, crispy bottom (tahdig), accompanied by a rich Persian stew (khoresh) and sometimes a hearty soup (aash) to begin. Fresh herbs, homemade strained yogurt and pickled vegetables (torshi) are customary accompaniments. The dishes are usually presented buffet-style to accommodate the variety and abundance. Feasting is a long-standing tradition in Persian culture, with its history dating back more than 5,000 years,” says Heller.
According to Heller, the presentation of food is of utmost importance in Persian cuisine. The garnishes and embellishments are as significant as the flavours themselves.
“Iranians take great care in decorating their dishes with slivered nuts, fresh herbs, pomegranate seeds and a delicate sprinkling of spices, as well as caramelized barberries or chopped walnuts, enhancing both the visual appeal and taste,” says Heller.
When it comes to influences other than the palate, Heller says that her latest book Persian Feasts is a dedication to her mother as well as the “brilliant, courageous and brave women of Iran, who inspire all of us.”
“My mother was a true Shirzan (Lion Lady). In Farsi, this term honours women who are strong, who stand up for their rights and who are trailblazers—courageous, brave and resilient, much like a lioness. It is a tribute to my mother and to all the women of Iran who have, throughout history, fought for their rights. Over the last century, these women have managed families, pursued careers and championed equal access to education alongside men. They have valiantly defended their country, culture and values. These are the women who inspire me, women like my mother, whose unwavering determination helped me achieve my goals and who fought not just for her own rights but also for the rights of her family,” says Heller.
As the President of Contemporary Art galleries in both New York and Dubai, Hellers says that art is another strong influence on her own interpretation of the culinary arts.
“Cooking, to me, is an art form — much like a painter prepares their canvas, a cook prepares a meal with love, creativity and a keen attention to detail. As I mention in the book, I see my mother’s approach to cooking much like a painter’s canvas, where the universality of art and cooking beautifully intertwine,” says Heller.
Notes from the Editor: For those want to purchase Heller’s Persian Feasts, click here. This feature has been edited from its original publication written by Michael La Corte here.
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